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Slow Food, the Good Life: What Carlo Petrini Reminds Us

Have you noticed something lately? The time we set aside for eating seems to pass faster than the meal itself. We eat breakfast in front of the computer. We squeeze lunch into the gap between meetings.

4 Min Read
Slow Food, the Good Life: What Carlo Petrini Reminds Us
Photo by Artur Ament

Have you noticed something lately? The time we set aside for eating seems to pass faster than the meal itself.

We eat breakfast in front of the computer. We squeeze lunch into the gap between meetings. By the time we get home in the evening, we are often not really cooking so much as making the rest of the day as easy as possible. Ordering something, reheating it, mixing it, opening it. It is all wonderfully practical. All very modern.

And yet sometimes, when we sit down at the table, there is a sense that something is missing. The food is there, but the act of eating has somehow disappeared.

This is where Carlo Petrini’s old objection begins.

When Petrini started the Slow Food movement in Italy in the 1980s, it was not simply about protesting fast-food chains. He was asking a broader, more everyday and, in many ways, more difficult question: How do we want to live?

What does that have to do with food, you might ask?

Quite a lot.

Because how we eat says almost as much about the way we live as what we choose to eat.

That is part of what makes Petrini’s thinking so appealing. At first glance, Slow Food can sound like a romantic idea involving slow-cooked dishes, local producers, good cheese and long lunches at the weekend. Look a little closer, though, and it becomes clear that it is about much more than food. It is a call to pay attention again. To consider what we buy, who produced it, where it came from and what happened to it before it reached the table.

Perhaps most importantly, it is a reminder not to rush.

There is a reason the word “slow” can sound slightly nostalgic today. Speed is no longer confined to transport or technology. It has become the default setting of everyday life. We answer faster, work faster, travel faster and consume faster. We have even learnt to make our free time more efficient.

Food does not fit particularly well into that system.

You cannot make a good tomato ripen faster. You cannot hurry an olive into maturity. You cannot persuade a sourdough starter to work on your schedule. A good ragù is not made better by being finished in ten minutes. Some things simply need time.

Perhaps this is why Slow Food still feels relevant. It does not ask us to reject technology. It asks us to consider whether all the speed technology offers really needs to fill every empty space in our lives.

Three words appear again and again in Petrini’s thinking: good, clean and fair.

Good means that what we eat should be delicious and well made. Clean means producing it without causing unnecessary harm to the environment. Fair means that the people who grow, make and produce our food should be treated fairly and receive their proper share.

All of this sounds perfectly reasonable. Almost too reasonable.

Put two tomatoes in front of you at the supermarket, however, and things suddenly become more complicated. One is cheaper. You know where the other one comes from. One genuinely tastes better. The other is available twelve months of the year. Which one do you choose?

This is perhaps where the real idea behind Slow Food begins: in these small, almost invisible decisions.

Because gusto is not simply an expensive bottle of wine on a restaurant menu or a rare cheese that requires a story of its own. Gusto is the ability to choose an ordinary thing with a little more care.

Knowing good bread when you taste it. Waiting for strawberries to come into season. Knowing why the small bakery on your street opens at the same time every morning. Stopping for two minutes to speak to a producer at the market. Wondering where the olives in your bottle of oil were actually grown.

None of these things will dramatically change your life.

That is not really the point.

A good life is often less about the big decisions than the small choices we make repeatedly. Sitting by the window with a coffee instead of drinking it while answering emails. Buying a loaf of bread on the way home from the Saturday market. Eating dinner at the table rather than in front of the television.

At some point, you realise that slowing down does not always require more time. Sometimes it simply means giving that time to something else.

This, I think, is what makes Petrini’s ideas interesting again. Slow Food is not a call to return to the past. It is, in many ways, a question about the future we want.

Because over the coming years, technology will make cooking, shopping and even deciding what to eat easier than ever. Artificial intelligence will suggest dinner, prepare your shopping list and find a recipe for whatever happens to be left in your fridge. One day, perhaps, you will come home without having to think about what to cook at all.

How convenient.

But then another question remains: What will we have lost?

The small mess of preparing a meal together. Not knowing quite what to buy at the market. A recipe that does not turn out exactly as planned. A bottle of wine that is unexpectedly better than you thought it would be. A dinner that goes on a little longer than expected. Someone saying, “Shall we stay a little longer?”

None of these things make much sense from the perspective of efficiency.

They make quite a lot of sense from the perspective of life.

Perhaps that is why Slow Food feels more relevant now than when it first appeared. It does not simply put slowness against speed. It reminds us that we still have a choice.

We do not have to slow everything down. Nor does every meal need to become a ritual lasting three hours. Sometimes a quick sandwich is exactly what you need.

But every now and then, there is something rather nice about stopping to eat something good, knowing who made it and actually being there while you eat it.

Perhaps Petrini’s greatest legacy lies somewhere in that simple idea: that changing the way we look at the table might also change the way we look at life.

Because good food does more than fill us up. It connects us to a place, a season, a person and, occasionally, to ourselves.

And in the middle of all this, slowing down a little may not be such a bad idea after all.

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